By Samantha Sowerby & Crystal Sam Rodriguez
April 02, 2021
“La belle vie” invites you to these 10 French haute cuisine bistros, brasseries and restaurants in the Klang Valley
Because the Tatler Dining team is made up of Francophiles, we have put together our ideas to name our favorite French restaurants that act as a passport to Gaul and its glorious culinary offerings.
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2OX reminds us that it’s not just Paris and Burgundy in France. Onion soup, Escargots à la Bourguignonne and Coq au Vin are on the menu and pass the test, but it’s the specialties from the south of France / Mediterranean that really grab the attention. A comforting classic, Ratatouille à la Provençale is reinterpreted by Chef Phillip Dominic, who wants to give French cuisine a lighter but still luxurious touch.
2OX | 54G and 56G Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala Lumpur | + 603-2692 2233 | + 603-2692 2233 | Online reservations | Open every day from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
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French cuisine? Yes, but the boss Isadora Chai does not allow categories to restrict her creativity. An ever-changing menu is probably the only constant at this modern French restaurant tucked away in Section 17, Petaling Jaya. For example, foie gras is also on the menu, but instead of fruit chutney, it is accompanied by grilled figs, crumbled feta and air-dried duck prosciutto. In addition, the Tatin tart is revisited with caramelized guava and served with balsamic vinegar ice cream. Not to mention that this is one of the few places in the Klang Valley where you can taste a large cheese platter accompanied by quince paste.
Bistro à Table | 6, Jalan 17/54, Seksyen 17, Petaling Jaya | + 603-7931 2831 or + 6011-1036 5888 | Online reservations | Open every day from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.
TATLER TIP: The tart Tatin or upside-down apple pie is named after Stéphanie and Caroline Tatin, two sisters who first served it in their hotel in the 1880s.
ICYMI: Chef Isadora Chai on motherhood: a 5-course story
Brasserie Fritz recently reopened at Troika Sky Dining and is now nestled between Cantaloup and Claret. It’s almost impossible to start an evening here without a Bloody Mary and half a dozen Fines de Claire oysters, especially when the setting reminds of a quintessential Parisian. oyster bar (oyster bar).
While the main courses consist of brasserie dishes such as Steak au Poivre and Mussels a la Fritz, the desserts are left to the whims of pastry chef Ivan Ong. The Rum Baba is served with a pineapple compote and a rich pineapple compote for a tropical touch, and the crème brûlée is taken out of its usual ramekin and placed on a vanilla ice cream and a vanilla sponge before serving. ‘be flambéed with cognac at the minute.
Fritz Brewery | Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, 19, Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur | + 603-2162 0886 | Online reservations | Open every day from 6 p.m. and every Saturday from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m.
Housed in a castle built of glass and steel (Troika Sky Dining), Cantaloupe (yes, like fruit) was built with an interior “moat” surrounding a podium and offers a bird’s eye view of KLCC and its surroundings. The cuisine shies away from the à la carte offer in favor of tastings in four or six courses, to get a better idea of the culinary creativity of executive chef Christian Bauer.
If it’s still available, get the Spring Salad with Eggs and Confit Tuna; Creamy egg yolk, meaty bonito and sour milk collide to create a flavor bomb in your mouth.
Review: Plan your own dining experience at Cantaloupe
Restaurant, $$$$, French, Kuala Lumpur City Center
Chateau Dionne’s origin story differs from that of its Klang Valley competitors, established by French expats who fell in love with Malaysia or Malaysians fell in love with France. Because no other French restaurant in the Klang Valley follows in the footsteps of a successful sister restaurant in Shanghai.
Restaurateur David Lim, who opened a series of wine bars called Denise Wine in the 2000s, found a knowledgeable partner in chef Andy Choy, who makes all kinds of great food, from Rougié foie gras to hazelnut crumble to lobster surrounded by a lively kale. velvety. But the two dishes we still dream of today are these: the Coquilles Saint-Jacques embellished with purple cauliflower florets and the masterfully executed soufflé presented with a mysterious numbered sign – the kitchen has kept track of every soufflé. served since the restaurant opened in July 2020; ours read 2961!
TATLER TIP: The four-course discovery menu or discovery menu priced at RM398 ++ per person is the best way to get acquainted with the signatures of Chateau Dionne, although there is also a classic four-course menu as well as a six-course tasting menu. dishes respectively priced at RM298 ++ and RM688 ++.
Chateau Dionne | 24G, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur | + 603-2011 2333 | Online reservations | Open every day from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Chez Gaston is only a stone’s throw from Yeast but boasts a world of difference. Both can be laid back, but the former can best be described as more intimate.
Chef Florian Niger, originally from Brittany, has set himself the goal of making authentic French cuisine accessible to everyone without compromising on ingredients or taste. Ray poached in lemon butter and monkfish with saffron sauce and black rice are just a few dishes that testify to the Breton chef’s affinity for seafood.
Chez Gaston | 12G, Jalan Bangsar Utama 9, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur | + 6011-3993 0036 | Open Tue – Sun, 12 p.m. – 2:30 p.m. & 6 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.
Double winner of the Top 20 at the Tatler Dining Awards in 2020 and 2021, Entier French Dining owes its success to the passionate team at Platform Hospitality and to a Japanese chef who is both creative and conscientious. Masashi Horiuchi, who trained with greats like Joël Robuchon, cares so much about the pleasure of his customers that it is not uncommon to see him glance at the dining room from the kitchen.
Entier French Dining’s kitchen is reminiscent of the kind ofnew cuisine that Robuchon is known to have propagated – not as light as that of Paul Bocuse new kitchen but with increased attention to seasonality and international inspiration. Expect freshly picked produce from the Cameron Highlands interspersed with ‘whole’ or ‘whole’ animals (hence whole) such as Anxin chicken and grilled fish in the josper.
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Duck is the key word in this chic and relaxed French bistro which serves Gers salad with dry duck, duck mousse with truffles, croque monsieur with duck confit, duck ravioli with orange, tagliatelle with minced duck and mushrooms, you see the basics. And it’s no wonder the chef has a soft spot for the waterbird: Occitanie in the South of France, which is considered the birthplace of cassoulet, is where Chef Firmin grew up. before meeting his current restaurant partners.
Despite the heavy red velvet curtains and white tablecloths, Le Gourmandin is casual enough to dress up but not so casual that you can’t enjoy good wine service.
Le Gourmandin | Solaris Dutamas Shopping Mall / Publika, D4-G4-01, 1, Jalan Dutamas 1, Kuala Lumpur | + 6011-6970 7473 | Open Tue – Sun, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
A little anecdote on how Sabayon got its nickname: During EQ’s previous incarnation as an Equatorial hotel, the Swiss Chalet restaurant served a dish dubbed the Chalet Sabayon aka “the dancing dessert” – the waiters whipped the egg dish while making a little jig.
While the staff is less light these days, Sabayon has other strengths in tune with today’s culinary culture. By incorporating local ingredients like T’lur caviar and Milky Whey cheese where they can, the chic restaurant justifies importing other high-end ingredients like Skrei cod from Norway and foie gras from France.
While modern Europe places a strong emphasis on French wine and cuisine, it also celebrates the English tradition of a Sunday roast, although it is unlike any other Sunday roast we have known elsewhere: for RM578 per adult, one gets -flows of Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Gallagher oysters that grow in the cleanest waters in the world and slices of meat sliced from roasts so large they need to be transported over carts.
TATLER TIP: Looking like you’re surrounded by stars, the elevator entrance to EQ’s 51st floor serves as a popular backdrop for Instagram selfies.
Sabayon at EQ | 51st Floor, Equatorial Plaza, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur | + 603-2789 7777 | Online reservations | Open every day from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Adorned with dangling copper pans that give off a rustic feel, Yeast Bangsar’s open kitchen offers an inviting glimpse into your culinary preparation.
By day, Yeast is a bakery with a mouthwatering selection of pain (bread), viennoiserie (sourdough pastries) and pastry (pastries) which also serves French classics such as Croque Madame or Oeufs en Cocotte. In the evening, however, it transforms into a chic bistro serving fine French cuisine, from Duck Magret to Confit Chicken.
Yeast | Bangsar: 24G Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur | + 603-2282 0118 | TTDI: 125, Jalan Aminuddin Baki, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur | + 603-7732 4888 | Open everyday from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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